Willughby's Spanish Tour

Mr. Fr. Willughby to Mr. Wray.

SIR,

THE first thing I saw considerable after I left Montpellier, was a Spring of Oleum Petroleum at Gahian at the same Place there is a kind of a black Pumice Stone, and a Medicinal Well. From thence we went to Narbonne, where there is some Antiquities there having a very sore Leg, and not being able to endure Riding, I resolved to go forward by Sea, and went in a little Vessel down the River to the Sea Shore, where we expected good Weather almost a Week in which time a Plaister of Diapalma cured my Leg: And the Mariners being out of hopes of a good Wind, we bought a pair of Mules for about five Pistoles apiece, and set forward to Perpintan, Colliver and Capo de Creux. Between Colliver and Capo de Creux we passed the Frontiers without any danger, searching, or trouble at all, only at the expence of an Escus for a Guide. At Capo de Creux is the principal Place for the Coral Fishing, and tho’ the Wind hindred us from seeing the Fishing, I saw the Instruments, and underftood as much about it as if I had seen it taken out of the Sea. Thence to Vict, where there is a Mine of Amethists, which they call Violet Stones; by what I saw there, and learned afterwards, I make no question but Diamonds, Rubies, Iacinths, and almost all Precious Stones, grow just in the fame manner as the Bristol Diamonds, Hexangular and Pointed, excepting Agate and Corneole, which may be reckoned among Pebbles. Thence to Cardona, where there is a Mountain of Sal Fossilis, which serves all the Countrey thereabouts; the best is hard and transparent like Crystal, so as they make Beads of it, and sell them very cheap at the Town. About the Mountain some Sea Plants. And now I would advise you by all means to make a little Tour in Spain, and see the Oleum Petrol. the Coral, the Amethysts, and the Salt Mountain; but to go no farther than Cardona, unless you resolve upon the Canary Voyage, or have a mind to an Andalusian Whore: But from Cardona to Xvesca, a great Town between Saragosa and Tholouse, where I heard Seignor La Stannosa has a very famous Museum the Bookseller that told me of it, said it would take up several Days to see all the Rarities: But very likely it is much lesser than the Fame. From Xuesca to Tholouse, where they say there is a Cave that hardens Bodies into a Mummy. In this journey before you come to Vict, as I remember, you will pass by Aulot; where in divers Caves there is spiraculums of Air, caused, as they imagine there, by the falling of Water. From Cardona I went to Portofa, where I saw a Mine of Marble which they call Jasper. From Portosa to Valentia; Gandia where I saw the Sugar Canes, and Sugar Mills; Chativer, where there is an Aqueduct made by the Moors; Caravac, where there is a Cross that came down from Heaven; Granada, where there is a Palace of the Moors that well deserves a Journey of a dozen Leagues. Thence to Sevil, where I attempted in vain to get a Passport for Portugal. I thought then to have gone to Gales, from thence to Tangier,and from Tangier to Lisbon,which was the best way to get into Portugal; but being discouraged by my Mules ill Fortune, and the time of the Year, I faced about, and returning by Land * * * * * * * Toledo, Madrid, Burgos, Vittoria, St. Sebastian, Bayonne, Bourdeaux, Blais, Sainctes, Poitiers, Amboise, Blois, Orleans, and got hither almost a Fortnight since. This Journey of almost a thousand Miles, I came all alone, having agreed with my Merchant to leave him either at Sevil or Lisbon: And, I thank God, escaped very well all along; but at Vittoria, and the Passage near St. Sebastian, was basely troubled with Searchers: if you come that way you must manifest your Money, at least all your Silver,and take a Pass. Between Bayonne and Bourdeaux I got a great many Notions about the making of Turpentine, Rosin, Pitch, and Yonderone, which I think is Tar, the Countrey being full of Pines. About Bayonne and St. Sebastian they catch a great many Whales every Winter; I got there some uncertain Notions about the Sperma Ceti. The buying of Horses or Mules is an excellent way, and you will find it will turn to very good Account, and save a great deal of Money, if you don’t go higher than five or six Pistoles a Horfe. At Sevil I found a Letter of Dr. Wilkins's, who very importunately persuaded either you or me to make a Voyage to the Pic of Tenariff; and that if * * * * home, and you would undertake it, the Royal Society would defray all your Charges, and send you to Cales all necessary Instruments, and a Catalogue of the Observations they to have made. The Pic is only to be ascended in June and July. When you come to Orleans I hope you will take exact Notice of Joan of Arles, and Charles 7. Statues upon the Bridge; I saw them as I passed by, but took them for some Superstitious Foppery, and did not at all regard them. I hope you will all along get the exact Government of all the Towns.

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