The Middleton Accounts of 1526: #6

The next entries in the Middleton household accounts for Sir Henry Willoughby in 1526 were a batch of 17 entries that were described as the bills for the making of woollen cloth at Middleton Hall. This batch was dated as having occurred from the 13th February. In inventories of Middleton Hall, there was reference to a dedicated “Spinning House” and the presence of multiple spinning wheels and equipment for dyeing material was also recorded.

The first four entries concerned payments for spinning. The first entry was for “broad white” to make blankets and the amount was 7 shillings 9 pence, which was the equivalent of about £170.99 today. The second entry was for 12 yards (about 10.9m) of “narrow white” and the amount was 2 shillings 3½ pence, which was the equivalent of about £50.56 today. The third entry was for a weight of list yarn and the amount was 3 pence, which was the equivalent of about £5.52 today. The fourth entry was for 8 broadcloths in tawny and the amount was £3, 9 shillings and 8 pence, which was the equivalent of about £1,537.11 today.

Spinning wheel in the Jettied Building at Middleton Hall, 2015. Photograph taken by Jennifer Habart.

Broad white refers to a type of broadcloth, which was a high-quality, heavy, durable and expensive woollen cloth that was produced in England. It was made from the best quality wool fleece and the name came from its finished width, which was normally about 2 yards (about 1.8m). Due to its size, to be woven, it required a large loom operated by two weavers. The term white meant that it was in its natural state, whilst tawny was a popular, and relatively expensive colour choice. Narrow white referred to a fine, thin yarn, which would have been high quality wool and required significant skill and labour to produce via a spinning wheel. List yarn was yarn to be used for the edges of the woven cloth, which was known as lists. The lists had to be particularly strong and hard-wearing in order to prevent fraying and withstand the tension of the loom during weaving.

The next three entries were payments for weaving. The fifth entry was for the broad white and the amount was 4 shillings, which was the equivalent of about £88.26 today. The sixth entry was for the narrow white and the amount was 13 pence, which was the equivalent of about £23.90 today. The seventh entry was for the 8 tawny broadcloths. The amount was 50 shillings 8 pence, which was the equivalent of about £1,117.90 today.

The eighth entry was described as payment for oil to use on the tawny broadcloths. The amount was 15 shillings 7 pence, which was the equivalent of about £343.83 today. Olive oil would normally be used on tawny broadcloth to provide water resistance, softness and a sheen to the material. The oil reacted with the tawny dye to create the characteristic warm tawny colour.

The next three entries were payments for fulling. The ninth entry was for the broad white and the amount was also 4 shillings. The tenth entry was for the 12 yards of narrow white and the amount was 12 pence, which was the equivalent of about £22.06 today. The eleventh entry was for the 8 broad tawny cloths and the amount was also 50 shillings 8 pence. Fulling was a crucial step in traditional woollen clothmaking. Through the application of moisture, heat, friction and pressure, which was in order to remove oils, dirt and impurities, it would make the material denser, smoother, warmer and water-repellent through shrinking and closing the threads.

The twelfth entry was described as payment for madder for the same 8 cloths. The amount was £5, 2 shillings and 1 pence, which was the equivalent of about £2,252.35 today. Madder was a widely used natural red dye that was extracted from the roots of the common madder plant (Rubia tinctorum).

The thirteenth entry was described as payment to William Dyer of Coleshill for 12 days working with the dyer at colouring the same cloths. The amount was also 4 shillings, which was the equivalent at that time of about 6 days wages for a skilled tradesman. The fourteenth entry was described as payment for the board of two dyers for the same 12 days. The amount was also 4 shillings.

The fifteenth entry was described as payment for other stuff that was occupied in the activity. The amount was 15 pence, which was the equivalent of about £27.58 today.

The sixteenth entry was described as payment for the spinning of linen yarn. The amount was 7 shillings 5½ pence, which was the equivalent of about £164.56 today.

Lastly, the seventeenth entry was described as payment for the weaving of 20 ells of linen cloth. The amount was 7 shillings 8 pence, which was the equivalent of about £169.16 today. An ell was a unit of length that was primarily used for measuring cloth. It was based on the length of an arm (from elbow to fingertip) and in England it was eventually standardised to about 45 inches (about 114cm), but other countries had a different standard length.

Next entry: 13th February.

Further Reading: W. H. Stevenson, Report on the Manuscripts of Lord Middleton, Historical Manuscripts Commission, 1911, p380-1.

Author - Debbie Jordan, Middleton Hall Volunteer.

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