Heritage Open Days: Everyday Histories #10: William Darby and Evelyn Dixon, Cooks at Middleton Hall

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One of the key occupations within the domestic household was the cook. Over the centuries there have been innumerable cooks employed at Middleton Hall. The first documented cook at Middleton Hall was in the late 13th century and he was William, the cook of Philip de Marmion, 5th Baron Marmion of Tamworth. However, this post will focus on two specific cooks at Middleton Hall separated by over 300 years: William Darby; and Evelyn Dixon.

In medieval and Tudor times, the occupation of a cook on a manorial estate was overwhelmingly male-dominated. This was due to a number of reasons. Firstly, manorial kitchens in this era were very hot and hazardous. Furthermore, someone working in one needed a lot of physical strength to lift the large cauldrons and turn spits. This consequently inclined the occupation to males.

Secondly, food was used in medieval and Tudor times as a projection of wealth and thus the person controlling and presenting it was highly valued. Moreover, in an era when poison and other hazards, such as sabotage and theft of luxury food items, were constant threats, the cook had to be highly trustworthy. Thus, they were a high-status servant and hence male.

Finally, it is known that the Willoughby’s, like many other manorial families, only had one cook across their Estates. Thus, the cook would often have to ride between their various manors. In fact, there is a record in the Middleton Accounts of William Darby having to ride specifically from Wollaton to Middleton in order to turn time-sensitive fresh produce at Middleton, such as bream and venison, into pies. There is no mention of him travelling with a retinue or an escort. In that era, this type of journey would have been unthinkable for a woman if she had held that role.

William Darby is known to have become the principal cook of the Willoughby family for a time in the mid-16th century. The first documented mention of him was in the records of John Hall, steward of Middleton Hall. On 12th September 1548, he recorded that William Darby was married. In 1568, William Darby, identified as the cook, was given a parcel of land at Middleton for his service. Darby was then recorded as being present at various Willoughby estates, wherever and whenever he was required.

Darby’s wages were recorded as: in 1572, paid quarterly, 10 shillings; at Christmas 1573, 10 shillings; and at Christmas 1574, 40 shillings. 10 shillings was the equivalent of 16 days work for a skilled tradesman at that time, or about £119.11 today. 40 shillings was the equivalent of 66 days work for a skilled tradesman at that time, or about £476.46 today.

The records also relate that Darby had the small room on the ground floor of Middleton Hall adjacent to the pastry room, which he used as his bedchamber. Today that room and what was the pastry room are part of the Cottage in the South Wing, adjacent to the east of the Old Kitchen. He similarly had his own room attached to the kitchens at Wollaton Hall. This adjacent room was vital for the cook because, in this era, the food was often slow-cooked and the hearth needed continuous tending.

Before 1595, it is known that William left the employ of the Willoughby family because in that year he was a cook in the employ of Bess of Hardwick at Chatsworth House. There is no question that this was a significant promotion for Darby. Bess of Hardwick was a cousin of Sir Francis I Willoughby and there was often a movement of servants between the two families.

Living History group making Bacon and Mutton pottage in the Old Kitchen at Middleton Hall, 2023

By the 20th century and the time of Evelyn Dixon, there had been a complete gender-dominance inversion in the role of the domestic cook. This change began in the 18th century, when the locale of elite dining slowly changed from being exclusively in manorial households to being in private restaurants. The prestige male cooks followed and became professional “chefs”. At the same time, the perception changed to view domestic cooking as an “ordinary” task and thus a woman’s role.

Furthermore, technological innovations, such as cast-iron cooking ranges, reduced the physicality of the role, which made it easier for women to undertake. Finally, fewer men entered service due to better-paid industrial job opportunities. Hence, by the end of the 19th century, the staff of even a manorial kitchen, let alone domestic houses, had changed to being almost entirely female.

Evelyn Brown was born 13th February 1910 in Middleton Village, the daughter of Dick and Eliza. Her father was an Estate carpenter for Lord Middleton. In 1935, she married John Thomas Dixon, the son of Arthur Dixon. Both the Brown and Dixon families are known to have had a very long connection in regards to working on the Middleton Estate. In 1939, Evelyn and John lived in one of the Dog Kennel Cottages, directly to the south of Middleton Hall. It was reported that John Averill constructed The Bungalow, just to the north of Middleton Hall, specifically for Evelyn. After it was built, she lived there for the remainder of her life.

It is known that Evelyn worked as a cook at Middleton Hall for the Averill family. Testimony from John Averill’s grandson, Richard Averill, recalled that one of his most notable memories was of returning home from school to find his mother and Evelyn making horseradish in the kitchen, both of them wearing World War II gas masks. Evelyn died on 17th March 1978 at The Bungalow and she was buried at Middleton Parish Church.