The Middleton Accounts of 1526: #31

The first entry for June in the Middleton household accounts for Sir Henry Willoughby in 1526 was undated. It was described as payment for half a yard of black cloth for bands for the gentlewomen’s kirtles. The amount was 6 pence, which was the equivalent of about £11.03 today.

The kirtle was the main garment in a medieval woman’s wardrobe and remained popular through the Tudor era. However, by the 17th century, it only remained commonly worn by middle or lower-class women. The kirtle was a one-piece garment that was worn over a smock and under a formal outer garment, such as a gown or surcoat.

Kirtles could be sleeveless or have pinned on sleeves. The earliest forms were simply pulled on over the head but they could also lace up the front, back, side-back or side, dependant on the fashion of the day and the overgarment worn. They were commonly made of wool for all classes, but the wealthier classes could have silk or fine-linen kirtles.

Medieval Day in the Glade at Middleton Hall, 2019. The yellow fabric is a kirtle.

In the early medieval era, kirtles began as a loose garment but in the 14th century they began to have supportive tighter-fitting elements. This structural aspect could have been what the purchased bands were for. Bands were used to interline the inside of the bodice part of the kirtle. Through careful patterning the fabric acted as a “breast band”, which sat beneath, supported and uplifted the bust. This soft support created the medieval female silhouette, which was formed without the rigid corset boning of later centuries.

However, there was another use for bands in this era. They could alternatively have been used on the hem of the skirt of the kirtle. In this use, they were normally a contrasting fabric to the kirtle. They had the functional purpose of protecting the skirt fabric of the kirtle from the filth, mud or wear from dragging on the ground. Therefore, if damage did occur, the only part that would need replacing was the band, which was much easier and cheaper to replace than the entire garment.

Further Reading: W. H. Stevenson, Report on the Manuscripts of Lord Middleton, Historical Manuscripts Commission, 1911. p.383.

Author - Debbie Jordan, Middleton Hall Volunteer.

Please consider supporting Middleton Hall Trust by sending us a donation.