The Middleton Accounts of 1526: #49
The next entry in the Middleton household accounts for Sir Henry Willoughby in 1526 was dated 6th September. It was described as payment for diverse spices that were purchased for the visit to Middleton Hall of Thomas Grey, 2nd Marquess of Dorset. The amount was 9 shillings 9 pence, which was the equivalent of about £215.12 today.
The wider Middleton Accounts provide enough evidence to make it possible to draw conclusions about the types of spices the Willoughby family used, how they normally purchased them and also how their tastes changed with fashion. Normally the family purchased all their spice needs in bulk at the main fairs, most commonly at Lichfield and Coventry. That is why this entry in the Accounts is unusual.
In the time of Sir Henry, the English diet was very different. Traditionally, English cuisine was heavily in favour of spices rather than herbs. That changed over the following decades after this entry due to an increased influence of Italian and French cuisines, which were heavily in favour of herbs rather than spices. Over the following century, this change was very noticeable in the Middleton Accounts. A consequence of this change in cuisine fashion was that the variety and prestigious use of spices in English cuisine declined. Hence, some of the spices that Sir Henry frequently purchased are not types of spices commonly known today.
The definition of what constituted a spice in the 1520s was different to what it is today. Very broadly, in Sir Henry’s time, a spice referred to any exotic, high-valued, imported item that was used for flavouring. Spices were thus not limited to being just the botanical powders that the term exclusively refers to today. Furthermore, spices were such an expensive item in Tudor times that they were stored in locked boxes. These are some of the spices known to have been purchased or used at Middleton Hall in the Tudor era:
Black Pepper. This was the most commonly purchased and used spice at Middleton Hall and was bought in extremely large quantities. It was a fundamental seasoning in Tudor England and was used to flavour a great many dishes including pottages, stews, meat and fish.
Sugar. Unlike today, this is an item that was considered as a highly-valued luxury spice in Tudor times. It was also frequently purchased in extremely large quantities at Middleton Hall. Sugar was used to sweeten wine and make drinks like strawberry-water as well as conserves, comfits, biscuits, marchpane (marzipan), sugar plate, sugar sculptures and more.
Cinnamon and Ginger. These spices were also purchased frequently in large quantities. In Tudor times, they were often combined to form a spice blend with sugar known as powder-douce that was dusted over roasted meats, pies, cooked fruit and more.
Cloves and Mace. These spices were regularly purchased and were used in the making of various items at Middleton Hall such as: cheese; sausages, with the addition of currants; and apple pudding, with the addition of sugar, currants and apples. In Tudor recipes they were also used to spice prestigious items such as roasted heronsews and other meats and fish.
Nutmeg. This spice was one that bucked the trend in the Middleton Accounts as the quantity purchased increased over the following century. In Tudor times, it was often grated into meat pies, fish dishes, egg custards and spiced drinks.
Galingale. Also known as galangal, this spice was closely related to ginger but had a more pine-like peppery flavour. It was highly prized in Tudor kitchens for the spicing of braised meats.
Spikenard. This intensely aromatic musky spice would only have been used sparingly to flavour wines, baked fruits and meat stews. It fell out of favour in Tudor times.
Long pepper. This was hotter and sweeter than the standard black pepper. It was often used in Tudor times to preserve autumn game and season slow-cooked pottages and poached fish.
Sanders. This was used as a vibrant red-crimson food colouring, which was added to dishes like jellies, poached fruit and meat pies. It did not alter the flavour of the dish.
Tournesol. This was also used as a food colouring. It would turn jellies or sugar-paste blue. However, if it came into contact with an acidic item, such as wine or vinegar, it would turn the item a vibrant purple instead.
Aniseed. These seeds were often used as a digestion aid after heavy meals. They were added to everyday baked products or were coated in sugar to form comfits.
Rice. A surprising inclusion in the Tudor “spices” but at that time it was an exceedingly expensive import. It was considered a novelty and would only have been used to make puddings such as a baked rice tart or rice pudding, both of which were made with rosewater that was produced at Middleton Hall.
Saffron. This was a very popular flavouring spice in Tudor England that was used in a wide range of dishes. However, there is no mention of it in the Willoughby Accounts after 1524. It is believed that at that time the Willoughby family had begun to grow saffron at a quantity that meant they never had to purchase it again. Saffron was also used as a food colouring to produce a golden hue.
Liquorice. Whilst this was a frequent purchase in Sir Henry’s time, the Accounts recorded that at the end of the 16th century, 14 liquorice plants were purchased for the garden at Wollaton Hall and it was then grown as a field crop on their land at Worksop.
Mustard. This essential spiced condiment was never purchased by the Willoughby family. However, there are multiple entries for the purchase of mustard seeds and costs incurred when making up the mustard. Hence, it is believed that they grew enough mustard that they never needed to purchase it ready-prepared. It would have frequently been served alongside fish and meats.
Further Reading:
W. H. Stevenson, Report on the Manuscripts of Lord Middleton, Historical Manuscripts Commission, 1911. p.380.
Mark Dawson, Plenti and Grase, 2009.
Author - Debbie Jordan, Middleton Hall Volunteer.
Comments